Once we arrive in Brest, we have to be patient. We wait! Not only for the right wind, but also for the right wave pattern. The right wind in the Bay of Biscay for at least three days and as little swell as possible. As we found out on the crossing from L’Aberwrach to Brest, the swell can come from a completely different direction and not match the wind at all in terms of height. This is caused by wind systems in the North Atlantic, which then send their 3-4 metre wave crests into the Bay of Biscay. Even if it sounds nonsensical at first, we would like to motor sail across the Bay of Biscay. We therefore need light winds of force 3 and as little swell as possible with a maximum height of 1-2 metres, preferably with a very low frequency.
Why do we want to go motor sailing? Because of the orcas. For a few years now, the orcas between Gibraltar and the Bay of Biscay have unfortunately made a habit of attacking sailing yachts and nibbling on the rudder blades. Of course, they don’t do this maliciously or anything like that, but they can still cause a lot of trouble and, in case of doubt, a distress at sea. The behaviour of orcas is well studied scientifically and there are corresponding rules of conduct that are recommended. Over the past few weeks, we have monitored the relevant platforms, joined various WhatsApp, Telegram and Facebook groups and formed our own opinions. There is actually no zero-risk strategy for the Bay of Biscay. The recommendation to sail in depths < 20 metres cannot be safely adhered to due to the swell and the coastline, as there are no orcas there, but there are other dangers. Unfortunately, sailing out the Bay of Biscay was also cancelled as a plan, as we would definitely have to sail through various orca waters. The direct route also harbours the risk of being attacked, but from our point of view the risk is somewhat lower. Orcas hunt in a depth range of 25-350 metres. Shallow and deeper areas are therefore relatively safe. But only relatively, because in areas with a depth of 1000 metres, an orca can of course also swim and hunt between 25 and 350 metres. Areas where a lot of fish, especially tuna, can be expected should be avoided. Lots of tuna = high orca risk. Tuna seem to like to stay on steep underwater slopes or underwater mountains. These should therefore also be avoided. In terms of weather conditions, swell influences, underwater formations etc., the direct route from Brest to a Coruña actually seems to us to be the safest route. For the most part, we are travelling in very deep areas. We are travelling > 500 m, we pass the underwater slope that runs across the Bay of Biscay relatively quickly and we are close to the commercial shipping routes, i.e. we also have the option of asking for help in the middle of the Bay of Biscay. To further minimise the risk, we also want to motor, firstly because motor yachts are attacked much less frequently and secondly because you should take flight more quickly in the event of an attack, which is currently the recommended strategy for orca attacks. A lot to think about and we’re not entirely comfortable with the passage! Otherwise, our first day in Brest begins rather uneventfully. It’s raining and blowing, not the weather for big excursions. I spend the day with a hot fan in my little office. Axel tidies up this and that and goes shopping. In the evening, we treat ourselves to a delicious pizza at Il Castello in the harbour and spend the rest of the evening in the cockpit as usual.
It’s getting fresh! It gets really fresh at night! In the morning, our thermometer only shows 13° C. Time to turn on the heating. Whilst Germany is still recording midsummer temperatures, we’ve somehow taken a wrong turn. We wanted warmer climes and not shivering! At least the sun is shining and quickly heats up our conservatory. The heating does the rest. While I disappear into the office after breakfast, Axel can take it easy for the day. The washing machine is running again. Just everyday life on board. We saddle up the bikes for our lunch break and head to the other marina, Marina du Moulin. There are a few boat chandlers there and we get some long-awaited materials for the next boat projects. Axel wants to modify our hot water pipe to the shower. As the hot water boiler is installed aft in the port hull, it takes what feels like an eternity for the hot water to reach the starboard shower. A lot of water is wasted! Of course we don’t want that, so Axel wants to divert the cold water and pour it back into the tank. We can also finally order a remote control for our autopilot. You can also operate the autopilot using an app on your smartphone, but that doesn’t seem ideal for various reasons. In the end, a smartphone is not as robust as a remote control and is also much more expensive to replace. Apart from that, I definitely need my iPhone and iPad for work. It would be a shame if they were to break due to water damage. Back on board, there is only a short breather. Axel is picked up at 3 pm to go shopping. The local Carrefour offers a free shuttle service to the shops, which we gladly take advantage of given the hilly route to the nearest supermarket. In the meantime, I disappear back into the office and only reappear when Axel is fully loaded at the gate to the jetty. Provisions for the next few days and for the crossing of the Bay of Biscay are on board. We are particularly pleased that we don’t have to transport heavy things like drinks and cat food in a rucksack or chopper. But the light but bulky toilet paper packs are also much easier to store. At the end of the day, we enjoy a nice Aperol Spritz in the front cockpit. Afterwards we have grilled salmon on Asian vegetables and a nice evening in the conservatory. There is still no weather for the crossing of the Bay of Biscay. But we can definitely hold out in Brest for a few more days!
For today – clever as we are (we think) – we have set the timer for the heating. A nice idea, but unfortunately it doesn’t work. The heating comes on briefly and goes off again immediately. Crap! So we’re shivering when we get up after all. A light drizzle from the rain on deck and a grey sky when we look outside don’t make it any better. Not even Lucky is meowing happily as usual in anticipation of his breakfast. Unfortunately, the weather forecast from the NRD2 radio doesn’t fit at all either. Sunshine and 30 degrees? Not far and wide in sight. While Axel, half asleep and in his bathrobe, tries to get the heating going, I have a delicious coffee. Lucky turns up after all and we all end up having breakfast in the cockpit. At least the egg turns out perfectly and tastes good. The world is slowly becoming more positive again. Axel uncovers the fault with the heating and it gets warm on board. I go to the office for a while and for lunch we have scallops with rice. Then the sun comes out and in the afternoon our friend Jens arrives in Brest with Marieke. That works! In the evening we have a delicious broccoli salad and then a tour of the harbour. Just another day in paradise…
Weekend at last! We are woken up early in the morning by the neighbouring diving boat, which is clattering dozens of diving tanks across the jetty. As soon as everything is lined up in front of the boat, it starts to rain cats and dogs. The heating comes on today without a hitch and we are glad that we don’t have to dive or sail, but can have breakfast in the saloon well warmed up and dry. Axel has read that the heating should run for two hours after installation. We’ll have to go through that today. Jens comes round at around 10 a.m. and picks Axel up to tinker. He has problems with his shore power and naturally wants to fix it as quickly as possible. Axel is in his element with electricity, so he is happily occupied for the time being. The problem is quickly found and fixed so that Axel and I can go ashore. Whilst cycling yesterday, I noticed a shop that looked very promising. And we pay it a visit today. Roi de Bretagne offers pretty much everything a gourmet’s heart desires. From pâtés to oils, spices, spirits, wine and champagne – we have rarely seen such an extensive selection. Naturally, one or two items end up in our shopping basket. Unfortunately, we have to leave the numerous super-nice decorative items out. No room on board! If we still had the mill, we would certainly have left here much more heavily laden. Back on board, the weather has fortunately improved considerably and Axel sets off on his bike with Jens to the ship’s chandlery. Our remote control for the autopilot has arrived and can be picked up. Meanwhile, I grab the pressure washer and finally give the entire boat a good clean from top to bottom. The amount of dirt that comes off is frightening! In the end, La Ola flashes and gleams in bright white and you need sunglasses to avoid being dazzled. In the evening, we enjoy burgers from the on-board grill with Jens and his homemade chips. Very tasty! As usual, the evening flies by.
Sunday brings weather to get used to. Rain, wind, grey and cold. NDR2’s weather forecast for northern Germany sounds somewhat cynical – it’s supposed to be summery and beautiful. But we’re here voluntarily, so we make the best of it. A good night’s sleep, heating on, hot showers and breakfast with an egg. That’s possible! Switch on the washing machine and do the dishes. Then just plug in the remote control for the autopilot. Just once?! This phrase should be cancelled on board!!! A quick fix usually goes wrong. Axel connects the aerial from the remote control to our sat nav system and then nothing works. No GPS, no rudder angle sensor, nothing. This is followed by wild cursing and a frantic search for the fault. Fortunately, Axel quickly finds out that the plotter has „forgotten“ all the sources and just has to save them again. It’s working again. Lucky again. For lunch, we treat ourselves to a baguette with tinned tuna and sardines. Also delicious. Then we rest, read and watch the weather at sea. Unfortunately, the right weather window still doesn’t appear. It’s blowing mightily in the North Atlantic and the winds are shifting back and forth over the Bay of Biscay, sometimes more, sometimes less strong. The forecast varies greatly between the individual models. So maybe we will sail out of the Bay of Biscay after all? We just don’t know. But patience is somehow still not our thing. So our mood and trip planning changes several times a day. When it clears up a little in the afternoon, we take a short walk to the end of the outer pier and let the strong wind blow around our noses. Back on board, we take it easy and in the evening we cook a delicious chilli con carne and watch a film again after a long time. However, we could have done without the film. King Kong was just badly made…
The new week is off to another grey start. But at least it’s a little warmer again and it’s not raining. So we get out of bed and get going. With so much enthusiasm on Monday morning, the sun doesn’t let up and looks down on us through the clouds. Apart from drinking coffee in the cockpit, we haven’t done much yet. While I disappear into the office at some point, Axel spends the day working on boat projects. More or less boring everyday life on board. After work, we make our way into the city centre together and go shopping for a few things at Carrefour City. Jens from Marieke comes round for dinner, equipped with patatas bravas, which we supplement with avocado mojo, falafel and raita. Later, Andreas from the catamaran Rosa joins us and we spend an entertaining evening together.
The weather doesn’t really want to get any better. It started grey again today and unfortunately it’s staying that way. No problem, I have numerous appointments to attend and therefore spend most of the day below deck. Axel passes the time in the saloon and in the afternoon he goes shopping again with the Carrefour taxi to replenish our supplies on board. The weather forecast for the Bay of Biscay doesn’t promise much improvement either. It will probably stay around Brest for a few more days. Then there’s the news that a 40-foot sailing yacht has just been attacked by orcas on its way from Brest to A Coruna. Fortunately without any major damage, but we still don’t find the news very reassuring. In the evening, we try cooking galettes ourselves today and really enjoy it. Jens also gets a bite to eat and we chat through the usual topics until it’s time to go to bed.
The next morning starts a little brighter, although it is still quite chilly. It’s just as well that we’ve installed the heating. It starts up automatically in the morning and only Lucky can’t really get used to the humming and warm puffing. I’m going back to the office today and can get some work done. In any case, bad weather also has positive aspects when it comes to work. After all, it’s a good way to finance sailing fun. Meanwhile, Axel is busy on board and in the harbour, improving other little things on La Ola. Lunch is cancelled today, but a visitor from Germany comes on board in the evening. Bernd and Susanne arrived in Brest early this morning on the cruise ship Vasco da Gama and manage to stop by briefly before continuing their journey in the evening. So once again we get news from home and are pleased that the meeting worked out.
Somehow things aren’t really moving forward! The weather can’t make up its mind and we’re just as indecisive. It can’t go on like this. Instead of waiting for perfect weather, we don’t want to sit around doing nothing. So we decide to enjoy our time and simply explore the surrounding area. We chose Morgat as our first stop. We had been there on our previous overland tour and did a cave tour. We have fond memories of the place and the marina has a place for us or we can anchor again. However, we won’t be leaving until tomorrow because it’s raining again today. And we don’t leave when it’s raining. Full stop! Luckily, there is also a break in the rain today and we can take a short trip into the city centre. Back on board, I do a bit of office work. Axel takes a siesta and tidies up. In the evening, we go ashore for dinner again. Le Crabe Marteau specialises in crab, lobster and langoustine and we are happy with the selection of oysters, crab and langoustines. Delicious sauces and fresh potatoes on the side complete the delicious meal. Full and satisfied, we head back on board, where we have a nightcap in the heated saloon before heading back to bed.
